Our home. Our country.

As I write this I am thinking about a blog that I recently read that was written by Kelly Theobald for the Birdsville Roadhouse, and am reminded of how when I read it I started to get that little tear form in the corner of my eye. To most people I think the act of welling up while reading about your home town is a little silly, but for some reason whenever I read nice things about Birdsville I get a little sentimental (with nasty things I just tune out). Once again it made me realise how great the community out here is and what a wonderful place it is to live.

When people ask me why I am doing this I often reply with “well why not?”. The Simpson Desert is my home, well technically it’s not my actual home but rather an area of land that meets my home. In saying that, according to the brown shaded area of the map I have here, Birdsville is a part of the desert so maybe it is my home. The traditional owners of what is known as the Simpson Desert are the Wangkangurru people and many descendents of this group still reside in the Birdsville area. As with many parts of Australia and the world there are stories of violence and clashes between Indigenous people and European settlers in the area, but to me the beautiful thing about the desert history, unlike some other areas, is that for the most part the relationship was peaceful. The traditional owners walked out the Simpson Desert on their own accord and where possible took up work on leases in the area.

For me, the link between the desert and myself has been on paper for more than a century when my grandma grew up on Annandale Station, and when my grandad took up the Adria Downs lease. I haven’t however actually felt this appreciation for the area until recently. I could easily have left this part of the story out, but I think it’s important to realise that just because something says that you should have a connection it doesn’t necessarily mean that you do. In the past couple of years I have found myself with a longing to return home, and a little bit of an empty pit whenever I left the area. It gets in your veins and never leaves. Anyone who has spent time in the area know this, and I think it is the single reason why descriptions of life out here hit home with me.

I started to think about how I was going to write about the history of the desert from the Indigenous and European perspectives nearly 5 months ago. Back then I had told people that I was going to write about the cultural history, but to be honest it has taken me this long to work out that I don’t know how. Yes I can acknowledge those who walked before me and who called the land home for thousands of years, but from growing up in Birdsville I find it very difficult to separate Indigenous life from European life. I know that from a historical perspective there is a very clear separation given thousands of years passed before Europeans came to the area, but on a more personal note the separation isn’t so clear. For me the two have been intertwined for as long as I can remember, and I feel and have always been made to feel, that my connection with the land that I am about to cross is worth as much as the descendents of the Wangkangurru people. Whether this is politically correct I don’t know, but to me it is our home and our country. In saying that there is a poem that I love called “My Country” - by Dorothea MacKellar, which depicts what is beautiful about our great nation.

MY COUNTRY

The love of field and coppice

Of green and shaded lanes,

Of ordered woods and gardens

Is running in your veins.

Strong love of grey-blue distance,

Brown streams and soft, dim skies

I know, but cannot share it,

My love is otherwise.

I love a sunburnt country,

A land of sweeping plains,

Of ragged mountain ranges,

Of droughts and flooding rains.

I love her far horizons,

I love her jewel-sea,

Her beauty and her terror

The wide brown land for me!

The stark white ring-barked forests,

All tragic to the moon,

The sapphire-misted mountains,

The hot gold hush of noon,

Green tangle of the brushes

Where lithe lianas coil,

And orchids deck the tree-tops,

And ferns the warm dark soil.

Core of my heart, my country!

Her pitiless blue sky,

When, sick at heart, around us

We see the cattle die

But then the grey clouds gather,

 And we can bless again

The drumming of an army,

The steady soaking rain.

Core of my heart, my country!

Land of the rainbow gold,

For flood and fire and famine

She pays us back threefold.

Over the thirsty paddocks,

Watch, after many days,

The filmy veil of greenness

That thickens as we gaze …

An opal-hearted country,

A wilful, lavish land

All you who have not loved her,

You will not understand

though Earth holds many splendours,

Wherever I may die,

I know to what brown country

My homing thoughts will fly.

We recently had a funeral here in town at which the whole community recited the last verse of this poem. It was a beautiful way to remember an old friend and it is a verse that I believe many Australians can relate to. No matter where on earth we travel for some of us we never really leave Australia. I now know that although I may leave the area in body one day, I will never really leave the area in spirit and I look forward to the journey of crossing a part of our country so special to many of my friends and the people of Birdsville, as well as to those who have passed through it. At the next full moon I should be half way through my walk, and I would love it if you could all take a moment and think about what makes our home and our country special to you.

For now though I bid you all a farewell and I will see you on the otherside slightly smelly, a little dusty and probably changed for the better.

If you need to contact me while I am walking click here for information.

A starry, starry night.

As everything comes to a head for my walk I am starting to have a sense of dread come over me. It is not however for reasons that most people would suspect. Rather it is because I have an intense fear/hatred of the cold. There is a reason I live in a desert and not in sub-antartic conditions: I do not appreciate my bones feeling like they will shatter. I despise that moment when your hands are so cold that placing them under cold water makes them feel like they are literally on fire, or when you knock your finger on something and it feels like someone has just chopped it off. There is nothing pleasurable about that experience.

Don’t get me wrong, I am extremely excited about starting the walk, and quite frankly I wish I could skip this last week and just start, but I am dreading beyond belief the time when I have to climb out of my sleeping bag in the cold, dark, wee hours of the morning and dress myself then step outside. I had a radio interview last week and when asked what I was most nervous about I didn’t answer with the expected response of “the sand” or “all the dunes”: no, I answered with “getting out of my sleeping bag in the morning”. Probably not quite what the host was expecting.

Deciding I needed to test out my sleeping arrangements before setting off for the walk, I found myself packing up the car on Saturday morning and heading off to Big Red for a long stroll into and out of the desert, before retiring to the edge of the lake for a night out. After finishing 22km I set up camp on the edge of paradise, set up my Speedy pop up tent, which takes all the hassle out of erecting a tent as you simply unzip the bag and throw the tent out, lit my fire and put the billy on. After letting my self-inflating mattress to do its thing and throwing my sleeping bag into the tent, I got cosy in a pair of trackies, sunk my chair into the sand and cooked up some curried sausages with lots of pasta to keep the carbs up. As the sun set, the millions of stars came out in the ever darkening sky, and I even spotted a few satelittes passing around our earth. Surprisingly the air had a hint of warmth to it, which was a pleasant surprise and one which was greatly appreciated by me.

The sun setting on a piece of paradise.

After taking in my weight in dinner, followed by numerous cups of tea and some rice cream for desert I decided it was time to test out all this camping equipment, and see if it really was as good as it said it was. Firstly, the Kathmandu self-inflating mattress is actually really good, I purposely got the thickest one they had and enjoyed the fact it stayed inflated. The Kathmandu sleeping bag also lived up to its expectations, and I can safely say I think it actually would be comfortable at -3 degrees. In saying this, it is slightly uncomfortable when the temperature is 16 degrees and you also have a thermal liner in it which effectively makes it comfort rated to -10. Not the smartest decision I have ever made but given I refuse to ever experience the cold that I felt on top of Kilimanjaro I’ll take the sweating any day. Lastly, the tent also did as it said it would and kept me wind and dew free which was a  relief, and best of all it packs up almost as easily as it pops out. I think there are going to be a lot of jealous campers when they see the ease with which it goes up and down, making those cold mornings when your hands don’t want to deal with undoing poles and ropes a thing of the past.

Gooooood Morrrrrrrning!

Rice cream anyone?

After waking a few times to let a bit of air into my sleeping bag when things got a bit sweaty, and when the swans on the lake got a bit noisy, I eventually arose to a glorious sunrise which ran rich colours across the landscape. Waking up out there alone with nothing but a sandhill behind you, a lake in front of you, and a whole lot of noisy birds is pure bliss. Given the night wasn’t that cold, it wasn’t even too painful to get out my sleeping bag (which eventually became more comfortable as the night wore on).

Check it…paradise!

Given I’d walked 22km the day before and as per usual failed to adequately stretch on completion of said walk, I wasn’t surprised to find my bum in a slight state of shock at being told to move. It felt like I had 2 corked butt cheeks which were not appreciative of climbing over another 12km of sand dunes. Given they are now pain free again I’m putting that one down to laziness on the stretching front, and will endeavour to do it properly next time.

The dingo and I going toe to toe. I followed its tracks all morning.

Just over a few more…

So after a weekend of crossing Big Red more times then I had to due to the slight hiccup of leaving my radio in the car rather then attaching it to me, lots of sand, a few vehicles asking me “are you supposed to be walking?”, and eavesdropping on lots of entertaining chit chat on the radio I made my way home to a very excited Chevy, and of course a hot bath. It had been a fairly good practice run of the real thing up until the hot bath part.

With the final week here I am still chasing my tail, and probably have a very unimpressed support crew given I am yet to let them know how much stuff I am bringing, and the minor detail that they leave on Thursday. I have however finally picked up the last of my supplies from the Birdsville Roadhouse, as well as received my walking shirts which look fantastic, and organised my last fundraising raffle to be held at the Birdsville Hotel this Friday night.

Thank you sponsors!

That pretty much just leaves packing, cooking, cleaning my house, work, updating the website and a single training session to do…and still a whole 4 days to do it in….I’m not worried at all….no, really…not…at…all.

The Outback Loop outshines itself.

For the past 6 months I have been working with staff of The Outback Loop raising awareness and funds for the RFDS. Throughout this time they have been amazingly considerate, accommodating and generous. For those who don’t know The Outback Loop: it is an itinerary. The Loop encompasses 2 tracks, 2 pubs and one experience.

After making their way along the Birdsville Track visitors are met with warm hospitality, cold beer, tasty food and excellent accommodation when they visit the Birdsville Hotel. Standing on the corner opposite the airport, the pub has a historical place in outback Australia and lives up to its reputation with many a yarn spun whilst sitting at the bar. No one quite knows what makes the Birdsville Hotel special, you have to experience it for yourself.

After doing so visitors can continue along the Loop via Cordillo Downs or the Arrabury Road to Innamincka. Perched on the edge of the gorgeous Cooper Creek, the Innamincka Hotel provides the visitor with something a little different in the isolated far north west corner of South Australia. Plating up delectable food every night using the finest South Australian ingredients, you’ll surprise your taste buds when the food hits them. Be sure to take a look around the town, a stroll by the river and a film at the starlight cinema, before retiring to your new and comfortable accommodation at the Hotel. Feeling refreshed after a restful night visitors can then complete the Outback Loop by travelling south along the Strezlecki Track to Lyndhurst.

Throughout The Long Walk Home journey I have been lucky to have the support of the staff at the Birdsville Hotel and through their Friday night raffles and other events we have raised around $3000 for the RFDS. I am very much looking forward to walking in the door of the hotel at the end of the walk and ordering my usual…bubbles (aka soda water)!

For more about The Outback Loop click here.

Birdsville Roadhouse snaps up a sponsor spot!

I would like to welcome the Birdsville Roadhouse to the coveted role of a Long Walk Home sponsor. The Birdsville Roadhouse is run by Peter and Bronwynne Barnes and their crew of tireless employees who never fail to put a smile on the faces of those passing through. Behind the counter you’ll find Bronwynne, Kathy and Kelly, who are always up for a chat. Out the back, Peter (Barnes’y) and Sam can be found fixing all sorts of vehicles and machinery.

Providing fuel, tyres, groceries, ice, camping equipment and sound mechanical advice and labour to those who need it (as well as driving advice to those who need it but don’t necessarily want it), the Roadhouse provides travellers with some creature comforts including mint slices when available and delicious Beerenberg gourmet jams. You can even pick up a freshly roasted chook if you get in early enough. The friendly staff will be able to point you in the right direction when travelling through the area and will make sure you know about all of the things to see and do while in town.

Barnes’y also functions as the RACQ operator in the area. So, if you ever get into a pickle, he’ll be out to fix you up or pick you up as soon as he can. He’s got an array of recovery vehicle options ranging from a Land Cruiser and snatch strap to an impressive ex-German army MAN truck.

I am extremely grateful for the support of the Birdsville Roadhouse and I look forward to working with them over the next few weeks to make sure I set off with all of the right food (and maybe a few mint slices too!).

THANK YOU.

THANK YOU.

Thank you.

Thank you for your support throughout the preparations. It has been overwhelming and I am still in a little disbelief that we have reached the goal before I have even started walking.

Thank you to each and everyone of you who have put your money towards the RFDS whether it be twenty cents or a thousand dollars, every bit has added up.

Thank you from everyone who has ever needed the service of the RFDS.

Thank you.

Who would of thought?

Who would of thought that so much could happen in Birdsville in one week.

On Monday I finally got to meet Walter Leven who I have previously written about and who is part way through his 6000km cycling journey around outback Australia. It was a hoot to get to meet him as he is also raising money for the RFDS and did so after hearing about my journey. After taking some photos outside the famous Birdsville Hotel and handing over a donation from the Birdsville community, we mosied inside to the warm atmosphere and hot tea to talk fundraising. His journey has so far taken him over 1200km and he is now on his way to Mt. Isa, along with a lady who has joined him. You can see more about his trip by clicking here.

Walter and I – photo Kim Wildman

We Love the RFDS – photo Kim Wildman

The RFDS then brought in Merv Hughes (classic aussie cricket hero) to talk about Men’s Health and from all accounts he was a roaring success. The RFDS not only provide us with a general clinic once a fortnight as well as our emergency retrieval service, they also bring in specialists and guests who cover issues that could easily be forgotten about in places like rural Australia. They connect us with the medical services provided for metropolitan areas, and ensure we aren’t forgotten when it comes to important health matters.

RFDS Doctor Emma Leu-Marshall, Merv Hughes, RFDS pilot Roger Rudduck, David and Nell Brook at the Men’s Health session.

Later in the week Dick and Pip Smith popped in to say g’day and being great supporters of The Long Walk Home I had to grab a photo with the lovely people. We were lucky enough to get a jar of Dick Smith Food’s new Ozemite and from personal experience I can say it is quite delicious. We also got a taste of some of the Australian made jams which are absolutely divine, and made for a tasty smoko when combined with the freshly baked scones…yum! Dick also surprised some travellers when he approached them in the caravan park and asked if they had any Dick Smith products with them. To his amazement they did, and for supporting Aussie made food he handed over $500. A good incentive to spend the extra 30 cents it costs to buy Aussie made food.

Hanging out with a huge Long Walk Home supporter. Thanks Dick and Pip!

Jody Barr, Dick Smith and I discussing Ozemite in the Birdsville Hotel

Throwing money for a good cause. Thanks Pip!

So after such a big week surely it would be time to settle back and enjoy the tranquility of Birdsville right? Not quite apparently. Next the weather gods decided to throw a spanner in the works and sent down more than an inch of rain which has left travellers stranded, roads closed, and our supply truck bogged 400km away. Not to mention I wasn’t able to head into the desert for my training this weekend! There are however worse places to be stranded, the roads are probably better off not being driven on when wet anyway, plenty of tinned food in the town, and enough bitumen and gravel roads around town for me to make alternative training arrangements. An upside of the rain is that if you are planning a trip out here in the next few months, you are in for an absolute treat when the wildflowers come out in their millions. It will be a spectacle that only nature can produce and luckily I will be right in the middle of it!

Do you think penalty units still apply if you are walking?

Cold and rainy here this week. They call me the Michelin woman in my Kathmandu jacket. I think my 6 pack looks good, and it’s toasty warm!

Also turning up this week was goat man Owen Davies, who has just finished an 8 week journey on foot from Camooweal in far north-west Queensland all the way down the Georgina river system to Birdsville. He gave me a few good tips and some encouragement that I’ll be ready to turn around and walk back again by the end.

It appeared though that the week still wasn’t over and I was certainly in for a surprise when I arrived at the Birdsville Hotel for the Friday night chook raffle. Filled with more locals than visitors I was overwhelmed that people continued to support the RFDS with their wallets, and we raised more than $500 in less than half an hour.  A special thanks must go to Webb Helicopters for donating a scenic flight for auction, and Kay Fomiatti for donating a gorgeous beanie and scarf for the raffle. To the wonderful friends, family and visitors of Birdsville I say a huge THANK YOU!

Winners are Grinners!

You’d think that would do it for the week right? Wrong.

Before the week could be over Saturday had to happen. So far today I have managed to take a short 17km stroll out of town making up for the desert which I can not get to, do my community duty and drive the ambulance to pick up the RFDS crew from the airport who have just been to retrieve a patient (albiet this was my first time doing so and although my instructions were clear they seemed to get a little hazy with all the mud around), I also got to eat some delicious OBE Beef and follow it up with 2 weis bars and a cup of tea. The day was made even better however, when I learnt that a lovely local had decided to auction off another local last night, who proceeded to end up with his hat in a strategically placed position to make up for his lack of clothing in other areas. Let’s just say someone got their kit off in the name of a good cause. Now just to find some photographic evidence…

Sun safety and natural fly keeper-awayer!

Also during the week we had a Qantas plane drop in that was on charter, and considering Birdsville was just on the front of the QANTAS magazine we thought it was a great opportunity for a photo. I also had a surprise visitor who happened to be the same person who originally asked me what my dream job would be and kicked off this whole walk idea, as well as receiving a few lovely letters in the mail from people I don’t know who wrote to wish me all the best. So for a post that was supposed to be short and sweet I bid you a farwell from a wet Birdsville with a temperamental sun shining in my window, having decided it would like to make an appearance for a few minutes. I apolgise for the disjointed nature of this post and hope you could navigate it well enough to make it to here